Ralph Rucci had planned to show spring 2006 ready to wear and his fall/winter 2005/2006 couture in his new Soho space, having just moved from 7th avenue, but alas, it was not ready, so he showed at the Bryant Park Tents as he has done for the last several years. One is hit, as usual, by the consistency in Ralph’s vision and philosophy, and by the excruciatingly precise detail, craftsmanship, and workmanship exhibited in the clothing of both collections, the level of which he has raised to an art form and is almost hard to describe. (How many other designers can lay claim to braiding leather, using scratch leather embroidery on tulle, adding an alligator bodice to a magnified stone patterned chiffon dress, making chiffon appear to be feathers? One must really examine the clothing closely in order to appreciate the details, (another reason why having just two rows of seats for the show makes so much sense).

What I found interesting this time, was that it was the more pared down, simplified pieces that I really loved- like the black double faced wool crepe pantsuit which had printed organza insets and skinny pants; the pale ivory narrow strapless dress with subtle pearl embroidery on the bodice; the graceful and elegant black jersey gown with a front panel and arrestingly beautiful bare back.

When the show shifted to couture, you could hear an audible gasp when the first outfit came out…a decidedly mod looking ivory and black oversized geometric patterned velvet coat with matching boots, followed by another crowd pleaser: a barguzin sable jacket that seemed to envelop the model, and another: the Jackson Pollack cashmere felted tweed suit with white Russian lynx belly trim, embroidered boiled chiffon blouse. Other standouts included the midcalf black crepe dress with black alligator band and black crepe and faille suspensions; black velvet and brown gazar infanta with empire waist abstract paisley embroidery; billowy ecru chiffon, lace, and tulle braided blouse worn with bronze/gold toreador pants; and the knee length dress comprised of a black matte alligator bodice, black damask skirt with hem layers in embroidered black Lesage lace, tulle, organza, and velvet flowers.

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