Written by Sedef Kokcuoglu

For Spring 2005 Armani whose name is synonymous with strikingly beautiful clothes, that make true fashion lovers’ hearts quiver with rapture, surprised his fans with a unfocused collection, lacking splendor and that famous magic touch.

Initially, the designer sent out androgynous ensembles featuring cropped jackets defined by angular shoulders, paired with wide cuffed trousers. This no-nonsense look emphasized a masculine silhouette that was unusually aggressive and bitterly cold. Later, with the emergence of mermaid skirts, multi-tired chiffon dresses, shalvar pants and Chinese silk pajamas, accessorized by peasant hats and wicker turbans the message Armani was trying to communicate became even more convoluted. Confronted with these clothes one could not help thinking that perhaps Armani had gone too far in trying to reinvent his art.

Fortunately, the disappointment caused by Armani’s divergence from dazzling red carpet gowns and sharp suits cut to perfection was somewhat alleviated by a succession of delicate white dresses adorned with lace details and intricate beadwork. One particular piece exquisite with sinuous lace skirts and a risqué bodice comprised of two wide straps was arresting and tantalizing in the true Armani tradition.


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