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Sleek Gypsies
PARIS, October 6 - Jean Paul Gaultier's cigarette smoking gypsies for Spring 2005 took to the runway on a rainy Tuesday evening in Paris, when hoards of buyers were navigating the wet streets from show to show to show. But for all practical purposes, they could just have stopped on Rue Saint Martin, where Gaultier sent out one of his most polished, creative, and commercially viable collections yet.
Things have recently been coming together for Jean Paul: his new headquarters has been renovated, his work with Hermès has become the talk of the town, his last couture collection was the highlight of the season. So, that brings us to his eponymous Ready-to-Wear line, which has recently begun to take on more and more shine.
Looking through Tuesday's show, you'd be hard pressed to find one piece that was not exquisite - day suits, pencil skirts, and flamenco dresses painted in earthy tobacco and rust tones, brightened up with whimsical chiffon prints of emerald-green and camellia-pink. But it was the eveningwear that was the real tour de force, which, for all practical purposes, flirted with haute couture.
One long, cocoa velour flared skirt was drizzled over with layers of pistachio green appliqué and then topped off with a bodice framed in royal and Aztec blue. Add in a gown of wafting goldenrod chiffon tied up with stripes of pale champagne and cherry-red, and you have the icing on a very luscious cake.
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