To The Los Angeles Times:
The
snotty, uninformed article by your style
critic Booth Moore about Los Angeles Fashion Week,
picked up by among others, the San Francisco
Chronicle, left us aghast and disgusted.
Ms. Moore is notorious for penning brutal reviews.
It is no secret that Ms. Moore, who thoroughly
relishes being the big fish in a small pond
was officially uninvited to Sue Wong’s
Fall 2004 show, after tearing the designer’s
previous collection to shreds. Since the
resolution of that scandalous ordeal, Booth
Moore has been exhausting her venomous ink
to condemn Los
Angeles’ promising
talent Louis Verdad.
To
Ms. Moore, Verdad is a mere atelier rehashing
the same designs season after season. In
her piece, “Haven’t we seen this already?” Booth
laments, “Unfortunately, we have seen
most of what he did here before; he’s
been showing it for two years.” The
main problem with her assertion stems from
an apparent inability to distinguish distinctive
style from replication. Let’s think
about the evolution of the Chanel suit for
instance. Indeed, Karl Lagerfeld has given
this fashion staple a face lift by renegotiating
proportions or perhaps adding some lace to
the cuffs, but ultimately the instantly recognizable
lines of Chanel’s timeless construction
have remained the same since its conception.
Louis
Verdad has a unique vintage-inspired flair
underscored by rigorous tailoring and classic
elegance. Expecting him to depart from his
trademark look solely in the name of ‘change’ is
simply absurd. Furthermore, we are skeptical
whether Ms. Moore was able to pay close
attention to the collection—she may
have been preoccupied with cozying up to
Vogue Editor-in-chief Anna Wintour—for
this season Louis Verdad did innovate change.
While staying true to his roots, the designer
spiced things up with bold prints, beaded
details, embroidered embellishments and
crock accents. Throwing into the mix beautiful
renditions of his strong shouldered silhouettes
in corduroy, leather and wool shearling,
Louis proved his willingness to experiment
with new materials.
Ms.
Moore dismissed Verdad’s eveningwear
as “awkward and overdone.” Since
when has going to extremes been a vice in
fashion? Anyone who has seen Galliano’s
sarcophagus dresses or Kabuki faces knows
that the runway is a theatrical platform upon
which the creative mind alludes to larger
than life ideals. Choosing controversial Mexican
painter Frida Kahlo as his muse, this season
Verdad created beautiful clothes that referenced
the captivating icon’s boundless spirit
and inimitable art. The exaggerated volumes,
exotic patterns, floral jacquard details,
ruche, and shoulder ruffles that Booth found
to be “awkward” resonate with
the folkloric attire and aesthetic sensibility
of a rich culture. Unfortunately, blinded
by Hollywood’s preoccupation
with “sexy twist front jersey dresses,” Booth
Moore is unable to appreciate the exquisiteness
of these offerings from the heart.
There
is no doubt about it: Los
Angeles is neither New
York nor Paris.
Here designers don’t thrive under
the protective wing of the Federation de la Couture or take creative
leaps knowing that the multi-million dollar
safety nets of fashion conglomerates are there
to catch them lest they fall. Los
Angeles designers cut
and construct with dedication, compassion,
and a pure love. Given how hard they strive
to do so much with so little, they all deserve
unwavering support and a standing ovation.
As
for Booth Moore, she needs to rethink her
offensive simplification of Los
Angeles fashion of “celebrity
fueled fads as Uggs boots [which are made
in Australia,
incidentally] and hipster jeans.” Indeed,
this would be a good time to wipe those
black rimmed glasses and take a closer look
at what is coming down the catwalk. Then
perhaps Moore could
come up with an editorial that is not a reiteration
of her cynical repertoire.
Note: All of the quotes
contained in the body of this piece are taken
from Booth Moore’s article, “Haven’t we
seen this already?”