Photographed by Gabriel Karanfil

Gilles Rosier can't quite seem to get the presentation right. This season he tried the Salon Impérial of the Hôtel Intercontinental, where he spent a fortune on long stemmed white roses that were placed on each seat. He might have been better off using some of that money to hire a better production cast. Photographers yelled, guests clapped, and still the show was held up - on and on and on - for no particular reason. When it did begin, the collection was mostly tight, linear and graphic, grounded in white, black, silver and nude. Chanel it was not, though some of the pieces had a certain charm of their own. The sequined appliqué that displayed all the finesse of glitter stuck on by Elmer's glue could have been cut out. The pair of cut out leather gloves, which looked as if they had been poured onto the hands, could have been applied throughout.

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