Since I last reviewed Ghost’s Bambi inspired collection showcased in Los Angeles, the brand has abandoned its cheerful approach to fashion articulated through powdery pastels and exaggerated lines. For Fall 2005 Ghost has taken on a positively grown up, undeniably somber mantel.

By using a no-nonsense teal and brown pinstriped skirt suit to introduce their new body of work, the designers of Ghost set a conservative tone from the get go. Cast in solemn browns, demure burgundies, and sedate greens, Ghost creations streaming down the runway appeared to be created with a modern day Jane Eyre in mind. The ubiquitous use of high collars, thin lapels, long hemlines, inset sleeves (gathered at the wrists) and boxy cuts conjured up retro images, but ultimately could not avoid coming across as stiff and stuck in a time warp. A few interesting pieces such as a citrus colored keyhole bias-cut dress sprayed with miniature flowers and a green chiffon spaghetti strap parachute gown gathered at the waist made dire attempts to resuscitate the collection, but in the end failed to chase away the cobwebbed ‘ghosts’ of the past.