Contrary to what you may have read, seen, or heard, exaggerated volume, flat shoes or boots, and Eastern European (notably Russian) inspired clothing are NOT the only trends that marked the fall/winter 2005 New York Collections (nor are they even the most important ones). This was, as it has increasingly become, another season defined by amazing variety, many choices and endless options for the customer who is as savvy as can be and highly knowledgeable about fashion (thanks in large part to all the endless interest and coverage by the media AND of course, the internet, which brings information to her at breakneck speed). Women, as I have long pointed out, do not go out and shop for new wardrobes each season- who has the time, inclination, OR the money? Most of us simply add desirable pieces to spruce things up and add some excitement. And based on what was shown in the past 8 days, there is truly something for everyone, with each designer thankfully doing what he/she does best and enabling us to tap into different sides of our lives and personalities through our clothing.

It’s impossible to talk about Olympus Fashion Week without mentioning the celebrity factor. Fashion Weeks in general (not just here in New York, but around the world) provide endless photo ops for invited guests which include bold face names (A- list stars, athletes, socialites), and it seems that each season, the star quotient is upped one notch -if that is possible- which contributes to the overall surrealistic feeling. Of course, it was truly ‘upped’ this season as one of the biggest stars (though still a ‘Grade B’ actress in my opinion), Jennifer Lopez, not only showed up at the Tents, but also showed up as a designer launching her Sweetface Collection, manufactured by Tommy Hilfiger. And she not only presented her line of young, luxurious, streetwise and sexy sportswear (which was preceded by more hype and speculation than anything I’ve seen), but did it in a style befitting a true diva: she ended the week (hers was the last show- well, actually, next to the last, right before As
Four), literally shut down the Tents (access was extremely limited only those with tickets), and she did it following on the heels of Ralph Rucci’s breathtaking 7 p.m. collection- possibly the best of his career (talk about going ‘from the sublime to the ridiculous’).

The members of the audience mirrored the runways in the sense that when all is said and done, in the end, what really looks the best are not the tricky, costumey things, that seem forced and contrived, but rather, natural, spontaneous, highly personal and individual takes on classics- eclectically and offhandedly mixed to add personality. Let’s face it, there are certain things that cannot be improved upon- new is NOT always improved (impeccable, rigorous tailoring; well thought out design; architectural details; distinctive outerwear; trenchcoats; equestrian and military inspired jackets; supple leathers and shearling; great fur pieces; gusty hand knits; menswear touches; lavish embellishment; breathtaking evening clothes. All of these, and more, were there in spades during the New York Collections.

Here are some of the Categories for New York Autumn 2005

The Master Tailors Forget about tricks, trends du jour, bells and whistles. Don’t be bullied into thinking you have to make an outrageous fashion statement in order to be ‘au courant’ or ‘in style’. After years of covering fashion and most recently, sitting through 8 days of shows, I always come to the same conclusion: that the most appealing collections are ultimately those that are grounded in styles that always looks best- clothes that are flattering, impeccably tailored, look just ‘right’, and don’t need an explanation. These are items you will literally want to hold onto for a lifetime, will always enjoy, and can be pulled out of the closet and relied upon for any occasion- anywhere in the world. I don’t mean to diminish the merit of innovation, artistic measures, designers who take risks, experiment, and push the envelope (we need that). In fact, the bottom line is that everything has its place (and knowing the right time and place to wear something is part of the equation). But take my word for it- forever chic, classic styles don’t have to be dull, uninspired, or boring, as proven by these modern thinking master craftsmen who are very routed in the 21 st century.

French to the Core (This group was admittedly inspired by the 'City of Lights' for their fall collections).

Generation 'Next' These young stars have already proved themselves as talents, and gained an important place in the fashion world, but of course, only time will tell if they have the staying power of Donna, Ralph, Michael, Oscar, Carolina, etc.