What is one to do with a fashion house famed for its trademark zigzags, kaleidoscopic prints and swirling motifs in zingy hues at a time when somber understatement is all the rage? Do as Angela Missoni does and tone down the colors, bring in the pastels and wrap it all up with matte finishes.

Opening with a knee length looped-hem gray knit skirt, a chiffon waterfall collar blouse and a black parka, Missoni declared that she was willing to moderately soften, but not completely modify her signature look. Reworking eighties elements like asymmetrical shoulders, straight collars, voluminous shapes, cuffed sleeves, halter necklines, and ruched details into a contemporary spirit, Missoni conceived interesting pieces that are bound to attract fashionistas of all ages.

This season Missoni’s opulent fabrics are cast into demure designs free from an overt preoccupation with sex appeal. Most pieces in the collection appear to be casually draped over the body and belted with obi-like sashes. Velvet jodhpurs are gathered into thin cuffs above the ankles. Stripes, patterns and solids are all arranged into impromptu mélanges.