The late Gianni Versace was a master at merging operatic colors, theatrical silhouettes, and a Fellini-esque sensuality into bravura design. His legacy’s lingering effects still have bearing on the fashion empire he built. Since Donatella’s earlier efforts to divorce her style from her brother’s bequest by creating all leather ensembles for nocturnal rocker-chicks met more criticism than acclaim, it has become clear that exploiting the past while revamping the future is the infamous Blondie’s recipe for success. That is exactly why this season the royal sister is going back to her roots; creating distinctive, at-the-edge designs for glamorous sirens.

With her opening piece-- an impeccably tailored ivory coat with nipped waist and massive shawl collars-- Donatella proved her prowess at employing luxurious geometry to render timeless elegance. Later ‘wrapping’ the cloth around the body, in true classical Gianni tradition, the designer let the female form expresses itself through fabric and cut. This revealing of the body, not through nudity but through dramatic sexy attire, brought back memories of the days when the Versace name resonated with pure seduction.

Incorporating eighties elements like asymmetrical collars, bat sleeves, ruche details, deep revers, and graduated tiered tucks into a contemporary sensibility, Signora Versace reinvigorated her creations. The new Versace look is defined by crisp sophistication and polished flair. Finally, Donatella’s key-hole dresses with attached arms and slashed yokes, cigarette trousers, pencil skirts, tailored jackets, off-the-shoulder silk jersey draped tops, and cashmere sweaters; cast in solid black, white, turquoise, lime, and fuchsia, appear to be made for a divinity, not a dominatrix.

Donatella recently completed a highly publicized stint in rehab and without a doubt the reclaiming of her sobriety shines through every aspect of this well-conceived collection. Ms. Versace is once again tailoring beautiful clothes that push the aesthetic limits of the avant-garde. Indeed, a glimpse at her show-stopper red carpet gowns, embellished by intricate beadwork and elaborate details, will convince the most avid cynic that Donatella has triumphed over gothic demons.