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The Establishment - OSCAR DE LA RENTA:
Oscar produced one of the best shows
of the season- it was totally consistent with his aesthetic and a complete
evolution of what he has been doing thus far- in other words, it was
very ‘Oscar’ all
the way through. Thoroughly and completely feminine, chic, and refined,
it nonetheless remained youthful, nonchalant (never uptight or stiff),
and oozed an easy, glamorous sportswear feeling. Perfectly put together
and accessorized, it never appeared to be too precious or ‘done-
up’, mixing a bit of 60’s St. Tropez, the exotic (Indian),
and nautical. It was marked by a group of colorful and bold ikat prints,
some of the best sweaters around- which were used for both day and
evening, embroidered or sequined tweeds and boucles, a crisply tailored
navy cotton ottoman jacket with large gold buttons worn with striped
sweater and white pants; and his always highly feminine and alluring
eveningwear.
Standouts include the marvelous ikat print trench
coat with matching shoulder bag; his new softer takes on the traditional
suit: a navy crochet sweater worn with navy and beige tweed panel skirt,
or the yellow cotton crochet sweater with aqua silk embroidered skirt
and straw belt; the jewel encrusted printed chiffon halter gown; a
printed bathing suit with printed chiffon coat; the tulle embroidered
feather cocktail dress; a frothy ivory lace embroidered top paired
with black taffeta tiered skirt and gold leather sandal; the group
of voluminous mid calf silk faille skirts and dresses, and the white
and navy silk sweaters with open backs worn with long white or navy
silk georgette skirts (simple, divine, and timeless).
One sweet personal note, this was truly a family affair- not
only is his daughter in law, Eliza Reed Bolen, head of design, but
his young adopted son Moises designed the printed t-shirts which were
shown on the runway, and a credit was given on the show program.
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