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Paris Spring 2005
Martin Margiela
Recycled Mania

PARIS, October 8 - The guards working the Martin Margiela show must have mistaken the guests standing outside in the gusting wind for inmates at Abu Ghraib given the disdainful way they barked orders.

The use of that security sub-contractor was clearly a mistake. So too, was the clunky seating arrangement that created a series of satellite cubicles walled off with black curtains - curiously, Jean Paul Gaultier, for whom Margiela once worked, made the same mistake at his January 2004 couture show.

White-cloaked assistants placated buyers and press with glasses of red wine served in plastic cups until the show finally started - one hour and twenty minutes late.
All of the above could be forgiven, had the collection really had anything to say. Unfortunately, it did not. The pieces amounted to an uninspired recycling of an old recycling theme: men's trousers and shirts remade into tops and skirts, old dresses become new blouses, hosiery dangling here and there like streamers. Some things looked unfinished, and other combinations could have been conceived by a 10-year-old after having rummaged through her mother's closet.

Margiela might consider enlarging his repertory, or in the very least, polishing the remnants already thrown in the blue bin.











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