Jonathan Saunders has renounced his delightfully wispy chiffon creations in bright hues in order to create stiff architectural constructions in depressing browns, plums, grays and blacks. Casting geometric designs and psychedelic motifs on an 80s silhouette defined by wide angular shoulders, boxy cuts and masculine details, Mr. Saunders proves to have lost sight of the girly essence that made his earlier work a wild success.

SaundersÕ robotic wool pieces appear to be intended for the costume wardrobe of the sci-fi cult favorite Star-Trek rather than the streets. The designerÕs ubiquitous use of collarless necklines, narrow inset arms, semi-fitted bodices, straight skirts cut in single pieces, outsized patterns and sashes knotted at the waist rehash fashion clichŽs sans a fresh reinterpretation. In an attempt to replicate Geoffrey BeeneÕs mastery at translating menswear fabrics into feminine elegance Saunders squanders his own talent at manipulating animated shapes and vivid colors.