San Francisco, a city perhaps best known for its liberal idealism and political rebellion, is finally making a bid for influence in the fabulous affairs of international fashion. Even though the majority San Franciscans would be inclined to publicly dismiss a preoccupation with style as ‘simply frivolous’, most secretly worship at the altar of panache. In other words, closet fashionistas run amok on the steep hills of San Francisco. From the Chanel inspired elegance of Russian Hill to the carefully constructed slapdash punk-rock cool of the Haight, San Francisco is secretly one of the chicest cities in the US. Numerous distinctive approaches to style converge here to create a unique concoction of flair. The first Fashion Week of San Francisco staged at the Palace of Fine Arts was reflective of this eclecticism.

Colleen Quen jump started the week with a parade of prim and proper dresses adorned with ruffles, high collars, and butterfly sleeves. (Fashionlines predicts the designer’s retro mini capes casually draped over these cute little numbers will be the must-have item for the fall.) Overall the minimalist simplicity of Quen’s daywear was a fine juxtaposition against the designer’s jazzy evening gowns, in bright hues like lemon sorbet, flamenco red, midnight blue and electric orange. Further, the designer’s flowing chiffon skirts, smooth silhouettes and inventive cuts were well conceived and skillfully executed.

Liz Bang’s swimwear line was a refreshing getaway defined by color and energy. Bang’s playful satin bikinis, sexy one-pieces, tropical sarongs, cozy terrycloth skirts and ultra short shorts are just right for getting all the attention at the beach.

Fashionlines has featured reviews of the Rock&Republic line several times before. It is no secret that these rebels without a cause, hailing form Los Angeles, have an unusual taste for irreverence. Hence it was no surprise to us when R&R’s scantily clad models, taking swigs from whisky bottles and smoking on the catwalk, made their appearances. Denim pants and über-mini jean skirts, matched with tattered and grease stained shirts, formed the backbone of this collection. However, significantly more shocking than the clothes were the “accessories” carried and the attitudes worn on the runway. The male models, whose torsos had been airbrushed with grey metallic colors-- reminiscent of gunshot wounds--, sported metal bars and pushed each other around, while the female models fondled their breasts in sexually suggestive ways. Even though Rock & Republic’s spectacle was not particularly tasteful it was certainly provocative. What can we say? After all, all is fair in love and fashion!

The Art Institute of California show featured the work of several new talents. The looks presented were rather distinctive and covered a wide scope of individual styles, but in essence they were all innovative and promising. Fashionlines especially liked a multihued collage dress with a fitted bodice and papier-mâché skirts.

Besnik’s futuristic creations making ample use of asymmetrical cuts, plunging necklines, cut-out panels and intricate details gave San Franciscans a taste of the daringly risqué. The derriere hugging jersey dresses, see through lace skirt-top ensembles, lithe satin pants and fearless minis from this collection are definitely not intended for the timid!

Evarize brought to life the timeless refinement of Faye Dunaway in the unforgettable movie classic Bonnie & Clyde. By resuscitating A-line skirts, long gloves, mini faux-fur stoles, and French berets Evarize transported a transfixed audience to the glam of the 30’s.

Loungewear Betty spiced things up by bringing out the frills and thrills of intimate wear. Teasing the audience with a procession of flirty baby dolls, tantalizing knickers and sexy sleepwear Loungewear Betty reminded us that it is possible to be irresistibly sexy and fashionable in the bedroom.

Fornarina’s clothes heralded a return to the bubblegum glamour of the 80s. Rehashing colorful stripes, polka dots, checkers and floral prints Fornarina’s adorable circle skirts, skinny Capris and cigarillo trousers revived the vibrant style of the Like-A-Virgin days. Matched with candy-like accessories and a pair of lovely pink shoes these retro pieces will allow fashion’s wild children to have a little fun.

Zilda by Flavia, showed interesting alternatives for independent career women, who refuse to look mediocre. Zilda’s sensible two piece skirt suits, pencil skirts, fitted button-down shirts, three quarter length jackets and chiffon circle skirts are conceived to make intelligent women look alluringly chic. Devoid of overtly sexual elements these attires rely on flattering lines and classic elegance to make a statement.

Christina Hurvis stole the spotlight with her dazzling evening wear and bridal collections. Working romanticism and poise into every stitch of her work, this gifted designer brought to mind the effortless beauty of Grace Kelly.

Hieros’ menswear line was a hunk studded deviation from the lithe floral prints, elaborate evening pieces, and beautiful wedding dresses that were ubiquitous throughout the weekend. Hieros constructed a casually stylish look for modern day metrosexuals by matching colorful shirts with understated khaki pants.

Lily Samii’s runway show was San Francisco Fashion Week’s brilliant finale. Ms. Samii’s designs, set apart by an impressive attention to detail, expert tailoring and precise cuts, wove a web of runway magic one dress at a time. From the green sleeveless keyhole dress that introduced the collection to the more exquisite red carpet gowns, Samii’s work explored all aspects of lyrical romanticism. Using opulent fabrics to her advantage, this creative talent crafted luxurious looks reminiscent of Parisian women’s graceful sophistication.