When we spoke to Jonathan Saunders in San Francisco he told Fashionlines, “The conception of each collection is different. Usually we either start from the textile print side of things or the silhouette side of things. Ann Guggenheim had an exhibition in the 40s. One room had her surrealist artists, the other her modernist artists. And in the middle she had a combination of both. Until that time it was either or camp. There was no middle ground. You know like Chanel and Schiaparelli. It is that kind of mix that influenced this season.” True to his word, the talented St. Matins graduate delivered exactly the eclectic mix of intelligent clothes foreshadowed by his description.

Saunders’ creations truly break the third wall. Creating Trompe l’oleil effects with abstract imagery, the designer puts a fine-art spin on fashion. Reminiscent of the Cubists’ preoccupation with the perfect harmony of geometry, Jonathan’s new collection explores the mathematical possibilities haute chic has to offer. Positively different, absolutely innovative; Jonathan’s psychedelic long and short sleeved flowing dresses, structured gowns, belted duster coats and ballooning skirts break the monotony of retail dictated lineups. Don’t get us wrong, the new Saunders look is bound to have commercial success. Just not with trendy hipster-tartlets. And that is a good thing.

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