Hurray for Marc! Though Marc loves to keep us guessing as to the direction he will head (he is fond of saying that he purposely goes against what he previously did), fall 2006 is not a jarring turnaround from last fall, but really, more of an obvious and delightful evolution. Don’t forget, for fall 2005 he stirred things up with his controversially somber and moody collection that was a study in exaggerated volume. While some loved it and some hated it, most agreed it was brave and courageous and was pointing to a certain direction. This season, he continued his love affair with volume but made it more wearable and believable and the designer is showing a more grown up and confident side and play around with draping, folding, and pleating (Mme. Gres’ enormous influence is being felt on this side of the Atlantic). The line can best be described as typically fall (which means appealingly muted, typically fall colors like camel, gray, olive, brown, ochre, ivory and black enlivened with a touch of deep red; textural plaids and weaves; amazingly constructed outerwear; inventive layering for warmth, comfort, and practicality- Marc seemingly layered everything- arms, hands, legs, and feet. He accessorized with sturdy boots, ribbed knit spat like leggings, oversized fur hats, and his trademark satchels, of course, and made a statement with menswear inspired trousers. He was the first designer this season to layer skirts over pants (the way Karl Lagerfeld did it for his Chanel New York- Paris pre fall collection which was shown here several months ago. I loved the idea then and I love it now.) It all looked so appealingly cozy, warm, and comfortable; I just wanted to envelope myself in everything.

Standouts include the cement side draped tent coat worn over metallic shot pants tucked into lace up flat work boots; the sculpted collar black, ivory and brown oversized plaid trench trimmed with black leather shown over floppy menswear twill trousers; the cap sleeved bias cut Scottish plaid tunic whose hem was knotted at one side, worn over a narrow distressed brown leather skirt which was layered over narrow twill pants; the boxy eggshell leather jacket with elbow length wide cuffed sleeves paired with a pale camel paper taffeta curved hem midcalf skirt; a short sleeved ‘schizophrenic’ coat that looked like two pieces – the top was brown and black, and the tiger patterned bottom was lavishly trimmed in red fox. There were also some nifty matching suit ideas (belted oversized _ coats worn over skirts or pants. For evening, Marc continued with his ingenious layering (as in the burnished metallic shirt shown with a black velvet skirt wrapped over plaid ‘leggings), and concentrated on black metallic sequined dresses and gowns with floaty pieces of distressed tulle. It was all about a certain idiosyncratic, restrained, downplayed luxury, which is what look right for these times.

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