PARIS, January 29, 2006 - Paul Smith is known as a Savile row tailor who knows how to infuse a little zing into his creations. The zing this season was more like a shot of Tex-Mex chili as Smith turned to the award winning film Brokeback Mountain for inspiration for this West meets Fleet Street collection.

The boys (as models are known in the trade) sauntered out from behind a backdrop of a classic British library replete with walnut paneling, side pieces filled with gold embossed volumes. A full decanter of whiskey sat to one side, and a Longhorn skull was mounted over the door. You didn't have to wait for the finale of brilliantly embroidered shirts with rodeo-style filigree, or the top drenched in Apache symbols (presented with Johnny Cash singing Circle of Fire over the soundtrack), to get the message. It was already there in the cowboy boots, leather jackets, and belts with big Texas buckles.

A series of impeccably tailored suits was presented with snazzy ties and vests, spiked up with tinges of goldenrod, burnt sienna and lavender.

This was classic Paul Smith - a way too elegant for ruffians, but just fine for the gentleman who likes to play the part.

more >