Narciso Rodriguez This season, Narciso Rodriguez moved from a larger venue at the tents where he had traditionally been showing, to a smaller art gallery on the far west side (which was strange timing since he was going to have to accommodate more people thanks to the launch of his brand new menswear line). FYI, the menswear was of course, based on the same sort of pared down minimalist designs and color palette that defines his women’s collection.

As for the women, Narciso always credits his Latin background as one of the reasons why he wants to celebrate women and make them look beautiful and elegant, never vulgar, which he always does. Spring 2006, was as tightly focused, highly consistent, beautifully conceived, fabricated, and executed as all his past collections, and though there didn’t seem to be much ‘evolution’ from the season(s) before, there were subtle changes.

Narciso admitted to having been inspired by swimwear and 30’s evening dresses and began with the idea that he wanted to loosen and ease things up and concentrate on fluidity but still be sensual. He worked in a very pared down and signature color palette of white, black, pale gray, brown, and lilac, and while he didn’t forget about his fitted and constructed jackets or his wonderful coats, he seemed to concentrate more on fluid, graceful, midcalf silk dresses that were generally narrow but not tight. Some were bare and featured slightly raised waists with graphic contrasting colors, others boasted a loosened up short sleeve top, hitting lower on the waist and almost giving the appearance of being a two piece (top tucked into a skirt).

Standouts included a black sleeveless midcalf dress that opened gently on top and had a bodice that was lined in white; a pale shimmery coat that just skimmed the body; and the long gowns with billowy skirts and jewel encrusted bodices and waists (including one subtle beauty in white with a cut out midriff). To accessorize and keep the mood gentle and easy, he used only one shoe- a low heeled, black patent or white thong type sandal.

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