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The 30 ‘something’ son of architects (who once worked for Michael Kors, Bill Blass, and Calvin Klein) launched his first collection in fall of 2003, and immediately put himself on the fashion map with his fresh approach to luxury and his clean lines. On Wednesday, he showed a strong collection inspired by “a thoroughly modern Madame Butterfly”, approaching the season with a yin/yang mix of boyish sportif daywear with “hyper delicate femininity” and working in a color palette of seaworthy navy and white, celery green, sun yellow, and shades of blues, given some shine through the liberal use of matte gold. Fabrics used consisted of crewelwork linen, hemstitched silk broadcloth, chantilly lace handkerchief, metallic matelesse and ostrich feathers, and chiffon.
Standouts included his navy silk broadcloth jacket worn with a chiffon jacquard top and a white linen ‘culotte’ (his looked amazingly wearable); a group of very pretty soft white blouses, including the hemstitched high necked short sleeved blouse worn with navy twill full legged sailor pants and white chantilly lace handkerchief top worn with a full cuffed pale gray trouser; his long belted cashmere cardigans which were thrown offhandedly over swimsuits and bikinis; the sweet and innocent white chantilly lace dress; the nude georgette shimmer gown with Swarovski crystals which was very bare, fluid and graceful; and his youthful take on feathers…in this case ostrich: an ostrich feathered strapless top worn over black linen culotte pants, and an ivory linen tunic blouse worn with a white ostrich feather knee length skirt.
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