Kenzo Loses
the Spell
PARIS, March 5, 2005 - At Saturday's Kenzo show, the models meandered through
a tropical garden set before a tapestry background, which would later open to
a set that looked like Aunt Clara's parlor transplanted to Bombay, and most of
what they were wearing could have come from the 60s sitcom 'Bewitched'.
Antonio Marras has previously presented energetic and forceful collections aimed
at re-launching earnings-challenged Kenzo, but for this season, he seemed to
get lost in eclecticism so void of any discernable theme that it boiled down
to gold speckled brocades, and a bizarre collar of hydrangea fluff choking Alek
Wek's thin neck. What the swimsuits had to do with a winter collection, is anybody's
guess.
Arguably the strongest moment was a quintet of day suits shown midway. Otherwise,
electric blue feather stoles and a gold lamé cape interspersed by ponchos
and Eastern European peasant dresses looked more experimental, than commercially
viable.
It was an uneven collection from a normally solid designer.
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