Looking for the Sweet Spot

By Timothy Hagy

PARIS, July 3, 2005 - The House of Yves Saint Laurent, now owned by luxury-diversified conglomerate PPR (Pinault Printemps Redoute), has found itself in free fall. Troubles started back in 1999 when Pierre Berg� and Saint Laurent sold off the Rive Gauche Ready-to-Wear divisions, but retained direct control over the haute couture line. With the retirement of le ma�tre in January 2002, the couture division effectively closed leaving only the men�s and women�s Rive Gauche line, then designed by American Tom Ford. Two years and millions of dollars in losses later, Ford left after failing to reach a contract settlement. Following in his steps, Italian Stefano Pilati was charged with �finding the sweet spot�, as it was put by new PPR CEO, Robert Polet.

Well, things have not been going well. Despite the help of numerous editors anxious to prop up the lame giant - those plugging the label have included the NY Times, Le Figaro, Vogue Homme, Vogue France and Vogue USA - the red ink continues to puddle.

So it is not surprising that the men�s collection for Summer 2006 was shown tentatively on a blazing hot Sunday afternoon in company headquarters on the Rue d�Artois. And what was seen on the runway was a continuation of previous seasons - namely a dandified look replete with tapered suits, casual wear intended for the yachting set, oversized bag accessories, and this season, a housecoat. Pilati has been needled by the same problem that got the better of Tom Ford, namely how to make the label speak to a new era.

Hedi Slimane found the solution during his tenure at the helm, but that kind of exoticism is missing nowadays. The current fare, presumably aimed at well-heeled gentlemen of the country club, will have to vie with Louis Vuitton and Herm�s for attention.

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